Assisted Locking or Pass
There are many types of belay devices. But which one works best for you? What does it mean for a device to have “assisted braking”? And should you trust it?
Using a belay device you feel most comfortable with will allow your climber to climb confidently without fear of you not catching them.
Tubular Belay Devices
With an ATC being the most common, these devices are wonderful for multipitch trad climbing, sport climbing, and top-rope climbing. The rope is folded and pushed through the device and secured with a locking carabiner to your harness. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Control” because, as the belayer, you control the flow of traffic in the air—your climber. The ATC is a great introductory device for teaching people how to belay without the bells and whistles of assisted-braking devices. The only downside is that since there is no assisted braking, you will not have the extra protection that other devices could provide.
Note: For all assisted braking devices, it’s crucial that you never let go of the brake strand. Gear can fail sometimes, and as the belayer, it is your responsibility always to be prepared for your climber. Your climber’s safety is literally in your hands.
Assisted-Braking Devices
Assisted-braking devices are called this because they can lock onto the rope when sudden force is applied (e.g., when your climber falls, the device helps you catch them).
Jul 2
The Edelrid Jul 2’s geometry offers high braking performance for when the climber falls. Similar to the ATC, it is a tubular device, but its geometry makes payout easier when feeding rope to your climber during lead climbing.
ATC-Pilot
Very similar to an ATC, but with an assisted braking feature. The Pilot provides an added layer of security by slowing the rope, making it easier for you as a belayer to catch the climber. The Pilot also allows a smoother lower since it can slow down the rope.
Grigri
One of the most common assisted braking devices, the Grigri uses a clutch to assist the belayer during a shock load. The device can fully stop the rope from flowing as the climber falls, but as the belayer, you are still required to be attentive to your climber. It also features an ergonomic handle that provides a smooth, comfortable descent for the climber. This device is used for ropes 8.5-11 mm. The only downside is that the Grigri is for right-handed belayers. Left-handed athletes can still use this device, but it might not be as comfortable because the hand is on the left side, making it optimal for right-handed users.
NEOX
Like the Grigri, the NEOX also features cam-assisted braking. The NEOX is smoother due to its internal spinning wheel, making it easier to feed slack to your climber, but the Grigri is more versatile. Like the Grigri, the handle for lowering is on the left, making it challenging for left-handed belayers.
Smart 2.0
Similar to the Grigri but without the cam, the Smart 2.0 can prevent the rope from passing in the event of a fall. A belay technique like an ATC uses the tube principle, making it suitable for sport and top rope.
Regardless of the belay device you use, you are responsible as the belayer to be attentive the entire time your climber is on the wall. Never let go of the brake strand in the event that any assisted braking fails. There is a reason all these devices are called assisted braking devices—not braking devices. Furthermore, it’s important to note that for all of these devices, they have a learning curve in order to provide a smooth belay to your climber. All of these devices have been relentlessly tested to ensure safety. It’s now a matter of which device provides you the most confidence in your abilities to safely help your climber send their next project!
